Author Topic: Head gasket replacement  (Read 279 times)

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robertomarkin

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Head gasket replacement
« on: 13 July, 2026, 09:51:09 PM »
Began the task this week of stripping my 1971 2000i coupe down in readiness for head gasket replacements after being sat for 10 years. Here's the right head off - I'll get both heads skimmed before they return to the car. Re the block, presumably it's rare for these to warp? The head gaskets have been done several times in the past on this car (not by me) all resulting in external coolant leaks..I'm told the cylinder head liners may need adjusting. I'll get the block surface cleaned up and check the protrusion.. am I right in saying I need to look out for 0.04 to 0.06mm? How hard of a job is it to adjust these if they're outside of that tolerance zone? Thanks all.
Current cars:

1971 Flavia 2000i Coupé (Kugelfischer)
1998 Y (1.2 16v)
Some silver German thing I use for work :D

robertomarkin

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Re: Head gasket replacement
« Reply #1 on: 13 July, 2026, 09:53:02 PM »
Photos
Current cars:

1971 Flavia 2000i Coupé (Kugelfischer)
1998 Y (1.2 16v)
Some silver German thing I use for work :D

Kevinlincs

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Re: Head gasket replacement
« Reply #2 on: 14 July, 2026, 08:26:01 PM »
The liners should indeed protrude above the level of the block castigs so they get maximum clamping force between the liner and head face. Like any metal they can warp although not being in direct contact with the combustion surface it's probably less likely but not impossible.
If the liners are flush with the casings then I'm afraid it's not a simple task to regain the height. The engine will need to come out and completly stripped down to get the liners out of each casing half. I did mine a winter or two ago, as yet not refitted to the car so I'm hoping mine are now OK. They were pretty much level with the casing height.
To remove the liners is not easy, I made a crude tool not unlike a threaded puller which did 3 fairly well, the last though would not budge and I had to resort to putting the casing in a hydraulic bearing press to get it to move. The seat then needs thoroughly cleaning of the inevitable corrosion and then new seals made to lift the liner up. On the advice of an expert I have used sheet copper which is available in the thicknesses needed. It can be cut with ordinary scissors. You need to assemble the liner in the engine, pressing it down using clamps so it seats firmly then measure the clearances to then calculate the thickness of seal.
It is quite a mammoth task so hopefully you won't need to do so!

Looking at yours it's clear that water has been escaping at the top side near the intake port, it also looks like the fire ring has slightly failed on the rear cylinder, in line with the spark plug. If so that may have pressurised the water enoughto cause the leak, evidence of water ingress in that cylinder also by the washed look on that intake valve face.

There are pictures on my thread with regards to the liner removal if you need to visualise the drama!
Flavia 815 coupe
Delta integrale

lancialulu

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Re: Head gasket replacement
« Reply #3 on: 15 July, 2026, 04:36:07 PM »
for what it is worth I have heard cutting thin stainless steel rings from appropriate thin shim sheet and (super) gluing to the liner face to get the protrusion. Not sure if it is a 100% reliable fix but I had an Aprilia that ran just fine with mod by a previous owner.....
Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
Lancias:
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
1983 HPE VX
1988 Delta 1.6GTie
1998 Zeta 21.  12v

robertomarkin

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Re: Head gasket replacement
« Reply #4 on: 16 July, 2026, 09:03:55 PM »
Hello both, many thanks for your valuable time in replying to me. I'm going to get the block surface cleaned up properly and get an accurate reading of the protrusion over the weekend and report back. Very interesting re the thing stainless "packer" to meet the protrusion criteria. Hopefully I'm not into that but we'll see..!


Re the "washed look" on the intake valve face, I took another look this evening and it doesn't look anywhere near as pronounced as it does in the photo. It's extremely subtle.. not really noticeable at all unless you're looking out for it, so maybe just my smart phone trying to be too clever with the image processing or something.
Current cars:

1971 Flavia 2000i Coupé (Kugelfischer)
1998 Y (1.2 16v)
Some silver German thing I use for work :D

Kevinlincs

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Re: Head gasket replacement
« Reply #5 on: 17 July, 2026, 02:45:50 PM »
I too did wonder if a shim could be made that sits atop the liner would work in the same way, it could be cut with tangs on the outer edge that could be bent over at 90degs to help it not slip, a bit like petals on a flower. No good having a full circular overlap as it would crease and cause the bit that needs to be flat to the liner to lift up and be unsettled.
With a bit of luck once cleaned you'll be within tolerance.  8)
Flavia 815 coupe
Delta integrale

robertomarkin

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Re: Head gasket replacement
« Reply #6 on: 21 July, 2026, 07:08:08 PM »
Slightly late update, ended up having my little boy for most of the weekend and he wasn't up for helping dad with the car🤣

I managed to borrow a trusty square off my grandfather apparently sourced in Germany in the 80s, of very similar ilk to that shown in the concise repair manual.

According to my feelers gauge readings (taken whilst trying to steady the square sideways with the engine mounted!) I have at least 0.04 all the way around. So we should be in business.

I will now seek to get the heads cleaned up / skimmed (if required) professionally and reinstate the heads. Does the 5kg.m torque, in the sequence specified in the concise repair manual still apply, or has there been any revised values/sequence published since, does anyone know?

Many thanks
Rob
Current cars:

1971 Flavia 2000i Coupé (Kugelfischer)
1998 Y (1.2 16v)
Some silver German thing I use for work :D