Well it's been a while, apologies.
In January, Andy at Lechlade Services (my local Lanoguard agent) completely Lanoguarded the underside of the car ("very good condition, to be fair" said Andy, and what a difference! See attachments in a zip file for before and after), changed the coolant to 4Life and changed the oil to a Morris multigrade rather than the Castrol monograde that Chris had her on. After that, once the weather had warmed up a bit, she went to Omicron. They have carried out the following work:
1. replace rear diff seals - both the seals that were in there were (differently) the wrong size for the lips (i.e. yet another bodge, poor little car), so no wonder it was 'sweating'. We were amazed oil wasn't pouring out;
2. change the freewheel lever seal on the gearbox;
3. change the starter motor - new Wosp one fitted although this also required a re-fabrication of one of the mounting holes on the block as this failed along a crack when removing the old starter motor;
4. new battery;
5. get the rear interior light working;
6. make a starting handle as none came with the car - it'll not be needed, but just in case it is;
7. new sparking plugs (B6L says the NGK book) as two of the B6S were actually faulty(!);
8. timing adjustment as it was way too advanced;
9. brake adjustment as they were pulling right;
10. change the propshaft-gearbox seal as this failed when the propshaft was being removed to do item 2);
11. rear nearside door adjustment;
12. front nearside window winding mechanism stripped, re-lubricated and reassembled;
13. trace and correct an intermittent fault on the new gauges - loose connection under the bonnet;
14. sort out the mixture as it was running very rich;
15. make an extension piece for the accelerator pedal, to bring it more into line with the brake pedal, as the vertical distance between the two was so great that one caught the edge of one's foot on the brake pedal moving from the accelerator to the brake (this having the inevitable brown-trouser effect) - very clever bit of work;
16. anti-rust and paint anything that needed doing, e.g. the running board edges etc;
17. top up the front shock absorbers;
18. complete tightness check;
19. oh yes, almost forgot, check the oil pressure gauge for accuracy (a tiny little bit optimistic but perfectly usable) and service the oil pressure relief valve;
20. umm, something else wot I cannae remember Captain.
The one thing we haven't sorted is the freewheel, which only seems to work intermittently. It'll work and then it won't and then there's a 'clunk' and it works again. As the lever in the cockpit is correctly adjusted via its cable to the actuating rod, this can only be because:
a) it hasn't been used for ages and needs use to free off the internal mechanism;
b) it is worn and needs adjustment within the gearbox itself;
c) it is completely worn out and needs rebuilding.
We cannot find any information on servicing the freewheel device anywhere. Andrew is dropping the car back on Tuesday, so I shall try a bit more and see if it can be persuaded to behave per a) above. Failing that, we'll run as it is over the summer in disengaged / normal mode and when she goes back to Omicron for the Autumn service, it'll be a question of taking the gearbox apart to discover whether it's b) or c). Any ideas anyone?
Sorry it's been a long while since I posted an update. But I do begin to think, after nigh on four years and don't ask on the pound signs (sigh), we're finally getting there. By which I mean, she's now something close to being 'two years old' mechanically, so now it should be possible simply to keep her there from now on. That was the plan all along of course. I shall hopefully report back later in the week!
All best cheers,
Mark