The Contessa

[frankxhv773t]

As many will know I've been sneaking up on having a working Flaminia Berlina for 25 years now with progressively less demanding projects. At our last Herts and Beds meeting before Christmas someone said "why don't you just buy something that works or you'll never get there". I'd looked at Christo Smal's one at Brightwells a year or so ago but decided against it as it still needed considerable sorting out.

I'd been aware of Mark's one since it was advertised by Mr Speedlux in 2018 so I was fairly confident of its condition. I took a run up to Pickering to look it over and, though it had some issues including not starting for me to hear it running, I put in a cautious bid. I thought I'd lost it when I checked the auction results but the winning bidder thought he was bidding on the Volumex in the same auction and didn't want a Flaminia at all! A deal was done between out two bids and I got her delivered home to Bedfordshire.

That's where the fun started. Having done less than 300 miles since restoration and import in 2018 lots of things had decided they didn't want to work but some basic cleaning of electrical contacts got enough things working to take a cautious test drive. I was surprised how vulnerable I felt driving without seat belts or wing mirrors.

There are still instruments not working and poor running to address but a carburettor rebuild kit arrived in the post today which hopefully will begin to sort things out. 

[Parisien]

Looking suitably magnificent Frank....it's been a long time coming! Enjoy

P

[Richard Fridd]

Wonderful. What became of the Brightwells car?

[Kevinlincs]

They look a big car Frank, especially awkward being LHD and no mirrors!
The PF coupe I briefly had a while back seemed huge, I can only assume the saloon is just longer still?
Looking forward to following on your progress 

[frankxhv773t]

The Brightwells' car didn't sell, I think it only got bid up to less than £8,000 so Christo took it home and has been gradually sorting out its issues. I believe it's on the road now and he has threatened to make it two Berlinas at the AGM this year.

[frankxhv773t]

I haven't been able to get the Contessa to run reliably and as there was fuel constantly running out of the accelerator pump jets and adjusting the slow running needle valves made no difference to tick-over I decided  to strip the carb and do a rebuild. The needle valve in the float chamber was stuck open which I gather is a common problem.

What I cant establish is how to adjust the fuel level in the float chamber. My manuals don't show the Solex 35 PAAI. They do specify a clearance of 18mm between the top of the float chamber and fuel level but I'm at a loss to see how that can be checked during reassembly with the instrument dry on the bench.

[lancialulu]

18mmis close to the solex sidedraght carb spec which is 19mm +/-. To measure I think you can run the car (or fuel pump) and remove the emulsion tube and use a suitably marked cable tie o measure the height of the fuel...

[willoroe]

Thanks for posting the updates, very interesting.
The attached might be useful. Dated June 1960 improvements to 35PAAI, gives a spec for the amount of fuel delivered by the accelerator pump.
Willo

[frankxhv773t]

Thanks for the input.

Tim, I'm not sure the top of the emulsion tube holder is in register with the top face of the carburettor body but I'm sure I can adjust for that in the measurements. I presume that adjusting the level still means taking the top cover off and bending the float arm to make alterations.

Willo, I've got that in both English and Italian, thanks, but it shows the accelerator pump not the float level.

[Kevinlincs]

The usual way to check the float level in all the carbs I've worked on is to revove the top and hold it upside down with the float pressing the float needle closed, just under gravity load. Measurement is usually then measured from the float to the underside of the top cover, with the needle valve closed so the height is with the float valve closed.
Looking at the picture though makes me wonder if that's a different carb to what I've seen befoe so could well be barking up the wrong tree!

[lancialulu]

Thanks for the input.

Tim, I'm not sure the top of the emulsion tube holder is in register with the top face of the carburettor body but I'm sure I can adjust for that in the measurements. I presume that adjusting the level still means taking the top cover off and bending the float arm to make alterations.

Willo, I've got that in both English and Italian, thanks, but it shows the accelerator pump not the float level.

yes normally tweaking the float gets the fuel level to the correct level. I made a gauge for the fulvia float so used that to reference the tweak…

[Richard Fridd]

I have heard that some recommend altering the position of the fuel inlet valve in relation to the float.
 Some will remember that I have a fuel-level sight- glass which I find invaluable.

   Richard

[frankxhv773t]

So, fuel level in the carb becomes a bit academic when the fuel pump decides to cease functioning! I guess that's next for a rebuild then.

Kevin, I'm with you on the usual way of setting the float level but on the Solex the valve isn't attached to the lid, it's left behind in the body when the lid is removed. Looking more closely at the workshop manual Lancia used a special tool (gauge 8015350) which is like the sight glass Richard suggests. On the 35 PAAI does it attach where the plug is at the bottom by the accelerator pump?

[Richard Fridd]

This glass shows fuel level. It shows fuel delivery function under all conditions including stuck inlet valve, float problems, blocked filter, empty tank! Very simple.

[frankxhv773t]

Thanks for that Richard, I'll have a think about something similar.

In my reply to Kevin I should have said the FLOAT isn't attached to the cover where the valve is, hence the inability to set one in direct relation to the other.

I've not had much luck finding a six hole fuel pump diaphragm and replacement pumps are Ferrari prices, i.e. ten times what I would like. A five screw pump is about £25 but a six screw one for the Flaminia is £250. There's actually one listed at £3,850!  Even rebuild kits seem to be in the hundreds of pounds.

I think an electric pump conversion is on the cards.