Technical information only

[davidwheeler]

Gaskets

I have just had made, to my pattern, a precise head gasket for my Lambda (see Lambda thread) by

E Dobson and Co (Gaskets) Ltd
Springfield Mills
Oakworth Road
Keighley
BD21 1QQ

01535 607257
sales@dobsongasket.com
www.dobsongasket.com


I thoroughly recommend them.  They should be able to make any gasket you need.  Speak to Brian Goodall or Andrew Jeffrey.

[davidwheeler]

Gear cutting

Complete Engineering  (Carlisle)  01228 573358

[davidwheeler]

I have posted recommendations for engine machining, piston ring manufacture, engine balancing, gear making and radiator manufacture on the Lambda Technical Information thread.

[BlueSky]

David asked me to post the url of my web site here. Please note the information in there is my personal experiences only. There are many out there with far greater knowledge and abilities when it comes to working on Aprilias than my very inexperienced hands.
http://www.narrywoolan.com.au/home/Lancia_Aprilia.html
All feed back, comments, criticisms and discussions are very welcome.

Noel

[Andrew Cox]

Owners of S1 Aprilias should find Noel's website of great interest. The combination of photos, drawings and text are a great medium for ex[plaining a complicated mechanical issue while showing off the jewel like qualities of Lancia's engineering. I think this website is a terrific template for the sort of thing that most of would like to do, if we only had Noel's skills. Noel has a big advantage on most of us having had a career in the I.T side of film and television.

Of particular interest to myself, is the list of 1st Series production changes he has extracted from the parts books. I own a late S1 car (38 7308) and have been scratching my head for years trying to make sense of the myriad small differences between this car and the majority of the other S1 Aprilias I am familiar with. For instance there are few parts interchangeable between the front ends on the early and late S1 cars, and you will need different tools to service them. In fact I notice changes to virtually every body panel and many mechanical components.

I will be looking forward to Noel's next update on fettling his car.

Andrew

[davidwheeler]

New wiring diagrams 1

[davidwheeler]

No1

[davidwheeler]

No 2 enlarged.

[BlueSky]

To supplement the diagram this is the list of what each part number is.
Don't forget also that this is the 1st series circuit diagram, 2nd series are a little different.
Noel

[davidwheeler]

Aprilia gearbox casing.

[davidwheeler]

Gearbox tips.

To remove the gears it is necessary only to remove the front bearings.  After having removed the front and rear plates, remove the locating plug for the input bearing and the rear nut from the layshaft.  Heat the front plate of the gearbox (inside the bell-housing) to 90C.  The input shaft and its bearing should pull out or at most need a gentle tapping on the output shaft to dislodge it.  Rotate the gears until the detent pin 382008 is pointing downwards.  The output shaft may then be pushed out forwards.  Take great care not to lose the detent pin, it falls out inwards.   Now tap gently on the rear end of the lay shaft.  This should dislodge the front layshaft bearing (no retaining pin for this) and the shaft should push through the gears.
There are two types of bottom gear pinion.  One has a 28mm shoulder on one side and is flush on the other.  This goes with a 32mm sleeve.  The other type has a shoulder of 13mm on one side and 17mm on the other.  This goes with two 15mm sleeves.  The total length in either case is 73.5mm.  The bottom gear pinion has thus two possible positions and must be put in the REARWARD position.  The layshaft may be reassembled (note carefully the position of the washer  38.20012) into the gearbox case and the front bearing inserted but not fully driven home.
Next the output shaft may be installed, threading it through the gear cluster.  Some output shafts 3820001 have one spline that is different from the others.  This MUST be assembled in line with the detent pin.  The other version has all the splines the same and is indifferent.  Install the detent pin and retain it in the outer end of its hole either with grease or gravity or the shaft will not go in.  The bottom gear wheel 38.19517 has a different internal tooth which must line up with the detent pin (if you get it wrong there is room to wriggle it round with out taking out the gears.  Similarly, make sure it does not slip round into the wrong place).
Heat the gearbox again and fit the front layshaft bearing (not too tight) and then the input shaft, lining up the groove in the bearing with the hole.  Insert the retaining plug.
Fit the selector rods and locating balls and springs, hold them down with a metal strip and test all the gears.  If you are very lucky, they will all work!

[davidwheeler]

Re-installation.

Make certain the gearbox is in neutral.  In some cars it is possible to install the gearbox with the engine in situ; in others it is not.  Install the gearbox in the car.  (Retain the clutch spinner in position with a rubber band to facilitate engaging the withdrawal fork).
Unscrew the gear-stick from the operating goose neck 58-0152R.  This latter should then slip into place and lie in the neutral position.  Do not try to force it.  Install the spring and retaining cover 38-21504-6,  screw in the retaining screws 38=21507 and only then screw the gear stick back into place.  Attempting to install the gear stick as a whole will displace the selector mechanism and make gear selection impossible.  Check that it works!

[davidwheeler]

Andre Telecontrol Shock Absorber bladders are available from Paul Beck www.vintagecarparts.co.uk.   The dash control bladders are listed under
 http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/part.phtml?PartID=3757
and the rear bladders under
http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/1349~telecontrol+expander+bag+type+HC~2-details/

Currently c. £42 apiece.

[davidwheeler]

Houdaille shock absorber information at

http://reocities.com/MotorCity/garage/1205/hdis.html

[lancialulu]

This Houdaille stuff is for the other side of the pond. I suspect all Euro applications use castor oil instead of glycerin. If castor oil has been used as original fit then any other fluid mixed with it will turn to a gooey mess and stop the damper from operating...

Tim